Mary Katrantzou is the creative director of leather goods and accessories at Bvlgari. The Maison is 140 years old, and this position is newly created. The universe hasn't left Bvlgari out, either Mary is a Greek-born talent. Bvlgari is an Italian brand with Greek roots, entwining the two cultures in some parts. Mary has a special connection with a brand that surely influences her inspiration. As a positive and hard-working person, along with creating for Bvlgari, she keeps developing her namesake brand Mary Katrantzou from London.
Bvlgari and Mary, together, created a unique bag collection, named Calla, the main inspiration behind it, and the reference to it, is the Terme di Caracalla, whose ancient mosaics are in the shape of calla lily. In this interview, especially for NARGIS Magazine, with Mary Katrantzou herself, you can dive into the rich heritage of Bvlgari and get to know Mary, her story, her wonderful art and the main inspiration behind it. We talked with her at Place Vendôme Bvlgari Boutique in Paris where the new collection of bags was exclusively revealed.
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What inspired you to pursue a career in design?
My grandmother was an artist, and my mother, an interior designer, both inspired my creative path. Actually, back from Greece, they opened the first female shop in the 50s. Women didn’t do this in that time at all. It was a part of my upbringing. I always knew about my creative talent for design and architecture. I was studying architecture at Rhode Island School of Design and graduated with a BA in Textile Design and an MA in Fashion from Saint Martin’s London. I always had a passion for colours and patterns. All my classmates wanted to go into fashion, and I started looking at fashion in a different way. For my Master’s graduation project at Central Saint Martins, I focused on fashion identity for the first time. It was incredibly informative, and it was the privilege for me to be mentored by Louis Welton. It’s then when my ambition shifted, and for the first time, I began considering launching my own brand.
How did it happen that you started working with Bvlgari?
I always liked Bvlgari, but I have never thought of Bvlgari’s Greek roots. In Rome, you can feel inspiration everywhere. That is how we felt preparing our collection for the iconic series of “Serpenti through the eyes of …” We launched a small capsule of high-craftsmanship bags and also Omnia perfume. Then I became a mother. Shortly after, we began discussing the newly created role of Creative Director for leather goods and accessories, which I believe is incredibly important. I feel that we’ve had the time to truly understand Bvlgari, not just aesthetically, but also its values and what it stands for. When you dive deep into an idea, you start understanding its layers.
How did the idea of the Calla collection come?
I came across an image of Calla, its story and the mosaic floors that inspired Bvlgari. Each of the Roman Jeweller’s lines has a unique and rare meaning, drawing from different cultures in various ways. The same applies to Calla; it’s the birthplace of Divas’ Dream collection. That motif is something I consider very Bvlgari in its form. While it’s not as iconic as Serpenti, which has decades of design and invention behind it, I still believe it carries a great deal of depth.
Was it challenging to master the “matelassé” quitting technique? We draw inspiration from jewellery and art, and we truly study the mathematical precision needed to translate that into a bag. That, in itself, is a form of research. The types of bags we create involve a level of craftsmanship that brings a true highjewellery piece into the form of a bag. Making a bag removable and capable of transformation means working on an entirely different level, one you wouldn’t see in any other luxury brand. I always say that a Bvlgari bag isn’t just a box bag with a logo; it’s much more than that. The Serpenti is not simply a logo – it’s a symbol. A woman holding it feels empowered. Bvlgari is not just another luxury house; it’s a heritage. There’s a whole other level in finding the balance between being wearable for everyday use and being a part of Bvlgari’s heritage.
Is it hard to combine working with your fashion brand and Bvlgari at the same time?
My studio and atelier are in London, so it’s always hard to travel. With a young child at home, I try to dedicate myself as best as I can. When in Milan, most of my time is focused on my family, and when in Florence, I am with Bvlgari. I’ve been running my own brand for 17 years, so it has a strong foundation and structure that’s well-organised. I can rely on my team, and when I’m not in the city, we work remotely.
What do you feel in common with Bvlgari?
Bvlgari has always been an alchemist of pulling different references to create something that is innovative, timeless, and has incredible design integrity. I think that connection with Bvlgari comes from my appreciation of culture, art, and Italy itself. I consider Italy and Greece to be very similar, as there are no many civilisations that have such a deep and rich history.
Tell us about your Serpenti bag. Do you plan another collection of bags with snake head?
I love Serpenti in jewellery and bags. When I first collaborated with Bvlgari, my idea was to celebrate the Serpenti in every shape. Why should the Serpenti be just a clasp for a bag? Why not celebrate the entire Serpenti movement, even as a handle? And that’s how my Serpenti bag was born. We also created a Serpenti head to emphasise just how iconic it is.There are many Serpenties around the world, but Bvlgari’s Serpenti is like the King and Queen of Serpenties. Whenever we have a great idea, we always think about Serpenti.
Describe your perfect day.
If I had to choose the most perfect one, it would be spending the whole day with my son, Michael. I don’t think I can pick just one perfect day; it has to be about the moment and how you feel. I try to listen to my body and understand what it needs. For instance, right now, after the busy Fashion Week, I really need to be with my family, with nothing else on my mind. I’m very lucky that tomorrow I’m going to London, and they’re coming to meet me there. We’ll have a week together. So, for me, tomorrow is the perfect day because I get to see my husband and my son.
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Bvlgari is not just another luxury house; it’s a heritage.
